Tailor&#39;s measure or square.



PATENTED AUG. 15, 1905.

G. GOLOSIMO. TAILORS MEASURE 0R SQUARE.

APPLICATION FILED FEB. 11. 1905.

TTED STATES PATENT FFTQE.

TMlLORS lVlEAEP-URE UP SQUAWEM Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Aug. 15, 1905.

Application filed February 11, 1905. Serial No. 245,254.

To (all whmn it may concern:

Be it known that I, Grusurrn (JoLosIMo, a subject of the King of ltaly,residing at W ashington, in the District of Columbia, have invented newand useful Improvements in Tailors Measures or Squares, of which thefollowing is a specification.

My invention relates to what are known as tailors measures or squares,designed to provide a convenient means in the hands of tailors fortaking the measurements of coats, vests, pantaloons, and similargarments.

The object of the invention is to provide a convenient and serviceabledevice adapted to a greater variety of uses than the squares or dinarilyemployed for similar purposes; and the invention consists of the partsand the constructions and arrangements of parts which I will hereinafterdescribe and claim.

In the accompanying drawings, forming part of this specification, and inwhich similar letters of reference indicate like parts in the severalviews, Figure 1 is a plan view of my improved device when used as asquare. Fig. 2 is a plan view of a portion of one of the blades lookingtoward the rear or reverse side. Fig. 3 is a detail of the head orjoint. lfig. 4: represents the meeting ends of the blades broken awayand separated to disclose the joint or head. Fig. 5 is a sectional viewon the line 4 at of Fig. 4.

In carrying out my invention lconstruct the device of two blades A B anda head portion (1, said head fori'ning a joint which permits the bladesto be straightened out, so that they may lie in line with one bladeforming acontinuation of the other, or the said blades may be made tostand one at right angles to the other, as shown in Fig. 1. Each of theblades is provided with various appropriate scales or grad nations ofany desired and suitable character which enable persons skilled in thisart to employ these scales in drafting a pattern for use in cuttinggarments. The scales shown on the blades are in practice laid out withmathematical precision following the well-known rules of geometry, andthey are arranged progressively along the blades and in such order andrelation as to facilitate the laying out of the pattern, as 1 willhereim'tfter describe.

While the arrangement of the scales may be varied without departing fromother salient features of the invention, 1 consider the arrangementshown as a preferred one. The

head C is really formed of thickened or en- I larged portions of themeeting ends of the r blades, and some of the graduations are thereforemarked upon the head, as shown. Along the outer edge of the blade A ismarked a scale a, which forms one of a group of three scales 1 2 3,designed for laying out on the pattern the proper points for one-half ofthe back of the armhole measurement, the said scale 3 being used forsack-coats, the scale 2 for Prince Albert, cutaway, and dress coats, andthe scale 1 for all other coats.

Along the outer edge of the blade A and succeeding the scale (It is ascale [2 for laying out one-half of the back length of a cut-away andsack coat, and succeeding the scale I) and along the said outer edge ofthe blade A is a scale 0 of inches and fractions thereof which will beuseful for total measurement in inches. Alongtheinner edge of the bladeA is a scale (Z, which is resorted to when drafting the halfback lengthof a Prince Albert and full-dress coat, and near the beginning of saidscale is a scale 0 for use in laying out the pattern for a one-halfsleeve. Succeeding the scale (Z and along the inner edge of the blade Ais also a scale 8, in inches and fractions thereof, the purpose of whichi will hereinafter refer to. The blade 13 has along its outer edge ascale f for laying out one'half of the back of neck, said scale beingsucceeded along said outer edge of the blade B by the scale 5 for layingout a one-half shoulder, the scale /t for a onea cut-away coat,sack-coat, overcoat, Sac. Parallel with the scale r; is a similar scale7': for use in laying out a one-half chest for a Prince Albert andfull-dress coat. There is also on the blade B the scale Z, which isresorted to in laying out a one-half sleeve, and also on the blade, nearthe beginning of the scale thereof, is a scale m, which is used inlaying out the one-half spring which is to be given the coat.

Along the inner edge of the blade I3 is a scale '11 which is used forlaying out the onehalf spring for an overcoat, and farther along thisinner edge of the blade B is a scale 0 for laying out a half-front,while the outer end of the blade has the usual scale in inches andfractions thereof. Parallel with the scale a is a scale for laying out aquarter-back for a coat, which scale is succeeded outwardly by a scale(j, which represents the dart measure.

In each of scales referred to, as shown, the

half back, the scale i for a one-half chest for graduations are numberedfrom 13 to 25, these figures being only illustrative and representingone-half the minimum and maximum sizes-say in the case of a small boyandlarge man. Thus on these scales the numeral 18 represents one-half ofthe total measurement twenty-six, and 25 represents one-half of a totalmeasure of fifty inches.

In the blade A and arranged parallel with and proximate to a scale Sshowing inches and fractions thereof is made a slot D. In this slot isslidably mounted the head 1) or one end of a bar E, which is capable oflying upon and parallel with the blade, as when its use is notnecessary, and which is also capable of being turned to stand at rightangles to the blade, as shown by full lines in Fig. 1. A second bar F isalso pivotally mounted upon the blade at a suitable fixed point whichmay represent the Zero point or place of beginning of the scale S andwhich second bar may also be turned to lie parallel with the blade A orto stand at right angles thereto, as shown. These two bars E F are usedtogether and in connection with said scale S, and their primary functionis to measure the depth of the shoulder or the distance from front torear .at the shoulder. \Vhen so used, the blade A is passed under thearm and one bar F is placed against the front of the shoulder and theother bar E is placed against the back of the shoulder, the slidable barbeing adjusted relative to the other bar and to the aforesaid scale toobtain the desired measurement. These bars E F may be made of thinmetal, and to hold them down flat on the blade when the bars are not inuse I prefer to form each bar with the enlarged head I), made square orrectangular or of such other shape that when the bars are turned tostand parallel with each other and with the blade the free end of onebar may be passed beneath the head of the other bar and the partsclamped to each other and to the blade by tightening up the suitablethumb-nuts H, which operate upon the threaded ends of the screws I,which form the pivots about which the bars are turnable. The pivot ofthe bar E extends through the slot D and also through one end-which mayrepresent an enlarged head of a flexible metal or other tape or measureJ, located on the back of the blade and norn'ially extending paralleltherewith and beyond the end of the blade and adapted to measure thedistance across the back and such other parts as such a tape will befound convenient. If desired, the said tape may pass through a guide orloop J on the back of the blade to hold it flat thereon.

The two blades A and B first above described are preferably united by ahinged joint or head C, as before mentioned. This head may be made inany appropriate manner. It is shown in Fig. 3 as consisting of asubstantially L-shape plate g or reinforce on the blade A and asimilarly-shaped plate 7/ or reinforce on the blade B, the platesoverlapping and the pivot passing through the overlapping portions, andsaid plate g being grooved or mortised at g g, the former to receive theextending part of the plate It and the latter to receive the edge of theblade B when the blades are folded, so that one stands at right anglesto the other, the two blades then interlocking with the shoulders formedby the cut-out portions of the plates g /t squarely in engagement, thuspreserving the proper relative positions of the blades. The extremeadjacent ends of the blades are also so shaped or cut out that one willfit within the other when the blades are opened out to stand in line,thereby presenting flush surfaces. I also prefer to employ a positivemeans for holding the blades in either of their adjusted positions.Therefore I provide the clamping-nut L, which operates on the threadedend of thepivot about which the blades turn, and which nut is adaptedwhen the blades stand in line and said nut is screwed down to clamp theadjacent ends of the blades tightly together in the position stated. Tohold the blades when one is turned to stand at right angles to theother, I show in said Fig. 3 a stud or pin R on one of the blades and apivoted hook member T on the other blade adapted to hook over the pin,and thus hold the blades against accidental outward movement.

The use of the device will be fully understood by those skilled in theart from the foregoing description; but it may be desirable to statefurther that the various geometrical scales marked upon the blades areused in connection with the ordinary tailors tape. In other words, themeasure of the part of the human form is first taken by the tailor,using the ordinary tape for obtaining the measurement, as is commonlypracticed. This measure is recorded in the tailors order-book or upon asheet of paper, and when the time comes for cutting the garment theblades are brought into use and the particular scale or scales thereon,which are applicable to the part of the body measured, is resorted toand points are indicated upon the sheet from which the pattern is to becut, and then the lines of the pattern are marked out, using the bladesas a straightedge for this purpose.

For instance, I will assume the measurements for a sack-coat to be asfollows: breast, thirty-six inches; length of back, thirty inches;sleeve, twenty-six inches. These are all the measurements required forthis coat when using my square. Having obtained these measurements andmade a record of the same in the order-book or upon a sheet of paper,when I am ready to cut the paper pattern for the coat I lay my squareupon the sheet of pattern-paper and draw a line along rev, N6

the outer edge of both blades A 13. Then upon the horizontal line thusmade I mark of? thirty inches, representing the length of the coat, andopposite the graduation 18of the division 3 of the scale a representingthe back of the armhole measurement 1 also make a mark, from which aline is drawn at right angles to the horizontal base-line. On thevertical line made along the outer edge of the blade B, lmakea mark atthe point 18 on the half-back sci le 71 and from this fl draw a lineparallel with the base-line until it intersects the line drawn fromscale a. I now move the square upward until the outer angle of the samecoincides with the line 18 for the half-back just referred to, and theni mark on the vertical line opposite the point 18 on the scale 5 of theblade B a point representing the half-shoulder measurement, from whichpoint runs a horizontal line. \Vhen the blade is in this last position,I also mark opposite the point 18 on the scale z' a point for thehalf-chest measure. When this is done, I again shift the square untilthe outer angle thereof coincides with the half-shoulder. line, afterwhich 1 make a mark on the vertical line at a point opposite thegraduation 1801 the halt-back-ofneck scalef. From each of the aforesaidpoints I run a horizontal line, using the blade A as a straight-edge,and after marking out the armhole, obtaining the spring and any otherrequired points in substantially the same manner as before pointed out,.1. run such diagonal and curved lines as usual and which those skilledin the art will understand, and thus shape the pattern. This pattern, itwill be understood, represents one-half the garment, and from thispattern the two halves representing the full garment are readily cut.

The foregoing general description of operation applies for a sack-coat.For a Prince Albert, full-dress, or cut-away coat a similar plan isfollowed, using the same and such other of the scales as may benecessary to give the proper shape to the desired garment. In cuttingthe pattern for pant-aloons I may also bring into use scale U. (Shownupon the blade A.)

Having thus described my invention, what I claim as new, and desire tosecure by Letters Patent, is

, 1. A tailors measure comprisingtwo blades pivoted together and adaptedto be held in a fixed relation one at right angles to the other, one ofsaid blades having its outer edge marked with graduations arranged ingroups and representing inches and parts thereof in half-measurementsfor the back of the neck, for the shoulder. for the back and for thechest, said chest-measure being made duplex, and said blade liaving itsinner edge marked with graduations arranged in groups and representinginches and fractions in haltmeasurements for the halt-front and havingother graduai'iions representing inches and parts thereof in hallnieasurement for the sleeve. and for the quarter-back, the other oi saidblades having graduations along opposite edges represei'iting inches andparts thereof in a one-l1al'F-backlength measure for coats of diflerentkinds, and having separate groups of graduations for the back ofarmhole-measure of coats oil dili'erent kinds, said blades havingmatching cut-out portions, and independent means tor positively holdingthe blades when they are in line with each other or when one is arrangedat right angles to the other.

2. A tailors square, comprising a pair of blades pivotally united attheir inner ends and adapted to stand one in line with the other and tobe turned so that one stands at right angles to the other, means forclamping one blade to the other when said blades are in line, andseparate means for holding the blades together when one is turned tostand at right angles to the other, said blades being provided alongopposite edges and at intermediate points with parallel groups ofgraduations representing inches and pro iortionate parts thereof in thevarious half-measurements for outer garments of different styles, one ofsaid blades provided with two pivoted bars adapted to be turned at rightangles thereto, one of said bars adjustable relative to the other, andsaid bars adapted to measure the depth of shoulder and said blade havinga scale in inches and fractions thereoi over which the adjustable bar ismovable.

3. A tailors measure comprising two blades pivoted together so that theymay stand in line or one may stand at right angles to the other,separate means for securing the blades in either of their adjustedpositions, said blades provided with series of scales or graduations,and a pair 01. bars pivotally mounted upon one of the blades, one ofsaid bars adjustable relative to the other bar and to one of saidscales.

4. A tailors measure com prising two blades one adapted to stand atright angles to the other, one of said blades longitiulinally slotted, apair of arms on said slotted blades one of said bars having a fixedpivot and the other bar having its pivot slidably mounted in the slot ofthe blade, said bars having enlarged head portions and capable of beingturned in opposite directions so that the free end of one bar may bepassed beneath the head of the other bar, and clamping-nuts for securingthe bars in either theoutward or folded position.

5. A tailors measure comprising two blades adapted to be held one atright angles to the other one of said blades being longitudinallyslotted, a pair of pivoted arms on the slotted blade and capable oflying parallel with the blade and at right angles thereto, one of saidbars having a fixed pivot and the other bar I In testimony whereof Ihave hereunto set having its pivot slidably mounted in the slot my handin presence of tWo subscribing Witof the blade, means for fixedlysecuring the nesses. V bars in either of their positions, and a meas-GIUSEPPE COLOSIMO.

ure on the rear of the blade and extending lengthwise thereof and fixedto and movable With the adjustable bar.

Witnesses:

G. XV. FOWLER, T. W. FOWLER.

